Ask around a K-swap meet and you'll hear the same plan over and over: build a K24, add a turbo. The aftermarket for it is deep and the parts are easy to find. What doesn't change when the turbo goes on is the block underneath it: an open-deck aluminum casting carrying factory rods and pistons. This guide is a K24 turbo build parts list arranged by stage, so you know which parts to order, which to order first, and which jobs to finish while the engine is out of the car.
Is this the right guide for your K24?
It's written for owners of K24-powered cars (TSX, Accord, CR-V, Element, or a K-swapped chassis) who are adding a turbo or more boost and are ready to open up the engine to do it properly. If your engine is staying sealed and you're only adding bolt-ons, most of this list can wait. If you're doing a freshen-up and want it stronger on the way back together, it applies in full.
Before you start, check that every part here matches your exact engine code. The Honda K-series family shares a lot, but not everything: some parts below are listed for K20A2 and K24A, others for K20A3 and K24A, and the fitment tables on each listing name specific cars. Everything here is in our Honda K24 collection or the Honda K20 collection.
Six stages, in the order they happen
- Strip it and get numbers. Pull the engine, tear it down to the bare block and crank, and measure. Crank journal size decides which bearings you can order. The ACL bearing listings spell it out: standard size is for cranks that haven't been ground undersize. Bore measurements decide whether standard-bore pistons and a matching head gasket will work.
- Lock in pistons and head gasket together. Piston bore and head gasket bore have to agree, and the gasket also decides where the coolant passages will be drilled in stage four. Choose both now, and have the gasket physically on the bench before any block work starts.
- Send the block out, if it needs machining. Honing, boring or deck work all happens on a bare block. Get this finished and the block cleaned before reinforcement. EPOXY54 can be applied before or after machine work, so it doesn't dictate your shop's schedule, but doing the machining first means the block only makes one trip.
- Reinforce the open deck. This is the step that turns a factory block into one ready for boost. EPOXY54 gives open-deck blocks closed-deck strength without machining, with 21,000 psi compressive strength and a thermal expansion rate closely matching aluminum. It's a DIY install in 5 steps. For a K24, choose the Inline 4 configuration and Partial Fill if the car sees the street. The final install step is drilling the coolant passages to match your head gasket, which is why the gasket had to come first.
- Assemble the bottom end and head. Main bearings, crank, rods with new rod bearings, then pistons, checking clearances as you go. Fit the head gasket and head. If you're upgrading to head studs, plan for them here and torque to the manufacturer's specification. While the head is apart or off, this is also the moment for valve springs if your turbo plan includes cams or more rpm.
- Finish the supporting systems. Oil control, fuel and clutch go in as the engine goes back into the car. A turbo K24 that's stronger inside still needs to stay fed with oil under load, get enough fuel, and put the power through a clutch that can hold it.
What to order for each stage
Fitment and specs below come from each product listing. Always compare the listing's fitment table with your car before ordering.
| Stage | Part | Why it's here |
|---|---|---|
| Block reinforcement | EPOXY54 Aluminum Block Epoxy Kit | Inline 4 Partial Fill keeps OEM coolant capability; Dry Block is for track use only |
| Block reinforcement | EPOXY54 Install Kit | Stir stick, 5/32" drill bit and squeeze bottle; sugar or salt and masking tape not included |
| Rods | Manley K24 Turbo Tuff Pro Series I-Beam rod set | Forged I-beam set listed for K24 cars including the TSX, Accord, CR-V and Element |
| Pistons | Manley K24A 87mm 9.0:1 dish piston set | Standard 87mm bore, 9.0:1 dish, rings included; confirm the ratio suits your fuel and tune |
| Rod bearings | ACL K20A2/K24A High Performance rod bearings | Standard size, for cranks that haven't been ground undersize |
| Main bearings | ACL B/K-series main bearing set | Standard size; usually replaced with the rod bearings |
| Head gasket | Cometic K20/K24 87mm .030" MLS head gasket | 87mm bore to match standard-bore pistons; Viton-coated MLS, no sealant needed |
| Valvetrain | Manley K20A3/K24A valve spring and retainer kit | Springs, titanium retainers and locks; listed for aftermarket cams and up to 10,000 rpm |
| Oiling | BLOX Racing K-series oil pan baffle | Bolt-in baffle listed for RSX, TSX, Accord, Civic Si, CR-V and Element |
| Fuel | BLOX Eco-Fi 1000cc injectors, K-series | Set of 4 with 1/2" adapters for the K-series rail |
| Fuel | AEM 340LPH in-tank fuel pump kit | E85 compatible, tested to 340 lph at 40 psi; 39mm OD, so check it suits your hanger |
| Clutch | Clutch Masters 725 Series steel flywheel | CNC-machined, balanced, SFI 1.2 certified; fitment table includes RSX, TSX and Accord |
| Clutch | ACT pilot bushing (PBNA004) | A few dollars, and it supports the transmission input shaft; replace it while the flywheel is off |
Want every option for each stage on one page, including head studs, cams and more fuel parts? See Shop the Honda K20 / K24 Boost Build: Parts by Stage.
Where K24 turbo builds lose time and money
- Buying the turbo kit first and the internals "later." Boost goes on, the factory pistons and open deck take the load, and the engine comes back out anyway. Budget the bottom end before the turbo.
- Mixing up K-series codes. A part listed for K20A3 and K24A isn't automatically right for every K-series engine. Read the title and the fitment table on each listing, especially in a swap car where the chassis and engine don't match.
- Drilling the coolant passages without the final gasket. The passages follow the head gasket's design. Change gaskets after the pour and you're re-drilling to a new pattern.
- Picking Dry Block for a street car. Dry Block means no coolant runs through the block and it's for track use only. If you want to see how a Partial Fill keeps cooling, read How Does the Engine Cool After EPOXY54? and Partial Fill vs. Dry Block.
- Treating EPOXY54 as a fix for a damaged block. It's a block filler that supports the cylinder walls, not a crack repair. Inspect the block during teardown and start with a sound one.
New to some of the terms above? Our glossary of engine block terms covers journals, fire rings and solute, and Open Deck vs Closed Deck Block explains why the K-series deck design matters once boost is involved. For the full story on reinforcing this block specifically, see K24 Block Filler.
Order your K24 parts
Measure, choose pistons and gasket together, finish the machine work, reinforce the block, then build. Get that sequence right and the engine only comes apart once. Start with EPOXY54 in the Inline 4 configuration and add the Install Kit if you don't already have the tools. Questions about your engine code or kit size? Email support@epoxy54.com before you order.
Shop the K-series build by stage → Shop all Honda K24 parts →